Late 18th c Portuguese Pink Topaz Garnet Flower Head Pendant

A pretty late 18th c Portuguese flower-head hair jewel, converted to a pendant with a addition of a circular gold bail, collet and pavé set with foiled-back pink topaz (18 total, approx. 3.9 ctw) in a cluster formation surrounding a central garnet. The posterior silver body charmingly adopts a sculpted flower-head shape. Late 18th c Portuguese hair ornaments of this type (converted to brooches) are illustrated on p. 175 of “Georgian Jewellery 1714-1830” by Ginny Redington Dawes with Olivia Collings. For other cluster-form Portuguese button, dress, and hair jewels, refer to cat. 54 and 34, “The SJ Phillips Collection of Jewels of Portugal” by Diana Scarisbrick. In original form, these flower-head jewels would have been mounted on en-tremblant springs extending from a longer hair pin. Extravagant 18th c coiffures often offered surface area for several jewels, so as to appear as if the hair is studded with little flowers. Changes in hairstyles forced hair jewels into obsolescence by the early 20th century; many survive these days having been converted into other forms (e.g. brooches, pendants, clasps, rings).


Date: c. 1775-1800, late 18th century

Materials: pink topaz (tested), garnet, silver (body), 14k gold (bail)

Weight: 6.2 grams

Height: 30 mm (including bail), 23 mm (excluding bail)

Width: 22 mm

Depth: 4.8 mm

Dimension of topazes: 18 total — six 5.25 x 3.4 mm trapezoidal cushion, twelve 4 x 4 mm triangular cushion (approx. 3.9 ctw; 6 x 0.35ct + 12 x 0.15ct)

Diameter of garnet: 7 mm (approx. 1.4 ct)

Condition: the gold bail is a recent addition. There’s a tiny 1 mm area of restoration touchup to the edge of the silver body (back only; not visible from the front). Silver has age-tarnished to a gunpowder gray. There is general age-related light surface wear throughout. Gems appear to be original, and are free from chips or eye-visible blemishes.